Not to miss

Jewish Cemetery & Em Habanim Synagogue

Generations of Fassi Jews are buried in this impeccably maintained cemetery, off Bab Lamar. Regimented lines of humble whitewashed tombs bearing the venerable names of Cohen, Danan, Hassarfati and Gabay parade down the hill toward the main road. In the centre, recognisable by its green urns, is the tomb of the 19th-century martyr Solica, a 17-year-old girl who refused to convert to Islam or accept the advances of the Governor of Tangier and had her throat slit as a result.

The Em Habanim Synagogue at the far end of the cemetery is now home to a modest museum of Jewish History, but it is rarely open.

Batha Museum

This building, Sultan Moulay Abd al-Aziz's summer palace, was completed at the end of the 19th century. Converted into a museum in 1916, it houses mostly 18th-century Fassi items, including musical instruments, embroidery, clothing and jewellery, as well as carpets from the Middle Atlas Berber tribes. Of note is the 10th-century minbar (pulpit) from the Al Andalous Mosque. The signage describing the artefacts is in French and Arabic.

Across the garden, the rest of the palace is closed, except for a tiny room where a man produces boxes, letter openers and trinkets in fine wood-marquetry, just as he has for 50 years. The garden has been lovingly restored by ADER (Agency for the Dedensification & Rehabilitation of the Fez Medina) based on the original plans. It contains a venerable holm oak that has grown much bigger than these trees usually do - perhaps especially for the artists who perform in its shade at the afternoon concerts of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music.

Bou Inania Medersa

Built between 1350 and 1356, this medersa is one of the most important sites in Fez. It was restored a few years ago. Inside the massive carved brass doors is a restful marble-floored space with central fountain, carved cedarwood mashrabiya panels screening the students' cells, very fine zellij and intricately carved plaster. Look out for the mihrab (niche indicating direction of Mecca) with its beautiful ceiling and the onyx marble columns.

The medersa is unusual in that it also has a mosque with a particularly beautiful minaret covered in green zellij. This is best viewed from east of the medersa, or from the terrace of Café Clock .